How to Do a European Mount 

A Step-By-Step Process On How To Do A European Mount 

So, you shot that big buck. The meat is taken care of. It’s in the freezer, and a bit of it already hit the skillet. But what to do with the rack? Well, some hunters prefer to do a European mount. If you want a good European mount to memorialize your next game animal, read on to learn how. 

Step 1: Conduct Regulations Research 

Some states, regions, counties, and zones have restrictions on the movement of deer carcasses. This includes unfinished deer skulls. Determine where and how you can transport (and not transport) skulls before becoming finished European mounts. Follow all restrictions and guidelines. 

Step 2: Remove the Skull at the Base of the Last Vertebrae 

Separate the skull from the neck. Remove it at the base of the last vertebrae. This should minimize meat waste. Also, it reduces the volume of necessary skull cleaning. It even produces a better-looking, more finished mount. 

Step 3: Flesh the Hide 

With the skull separated from the neck, remove the brain and other remaining “high-risk” parts from the hide. Flesh as much hide and meat away from the bone as possible. Carve out what you can reach inside the skull, too. 

Step 4: Remove the Eyes 

Now, for the eyes. Using a good knife, carve out each eye. Remove all connective tissue behind the eyes inside the eye sockets. 

Step 5: Remove the Jaw Bones 

If able, remove the jaw bones from the skull. These will not remain with the finished product. If they won’t separate, wait until after the boiling process. Then remove. 

Step 6: Prep the Pot 

Those who plan to boil the skull should prep the pot. This involves filling the pot with water, hooking up the heat source, heating the cooker, etc. It’s important to choose a pot that’s large enough to fit the skull. 

Step 7: Prep the Antlers 

Wrap the antler bases with tape. Tape these from the burs up the beams and past the brow tines. This helps ensure the antlers themselves aren’t bleached or changed in color. 

Step 8: Choose Between Bugs, Boiling, Maceration or Pressure Washing 

Now, it’s time for tissue removal. Most people prefer to boil skulls (see Step 6). This releases the tissue from the bone. A large aluminum pot on a propane-fueled fryer kit or outdoor cooker should do just fine. What tissue doesn’t fall off during the boiling process should come off via low-pressure pressure washing. Spray downward from the back of the head looking forward in order to not damage softer bones and cartilage around the nasal cavity. Use needle-nose pliers to remove any remaining stubborn tissues. 

Maceration is a slower, more delicate option. With this method, the skull is soaked in water that’s approximately 85-90 degrees Fahrenheit. This allows bacteria to grow, which helps remove the soft tissue from the bone without damaging the bone itself. Although usually insignificant, with boiling, some of the smaller bones and cartilage can be negatively impacted by the boiling process. 

That said, this process can take up to five days (not the best option for those short on time). It’ll remain submerged in the water, and after that period, low water pressure should remove the remaining tissues. During the process, keep an eye on water levels. You might need to add water. A lid will help reduce evaporation and minimize odors escaping into the surrounding area. 

Lastly, some people choose to let nature do the work. They’ll bury the skull in the soil where bugs congregate. (With a bucket on top and heavy weight to prevent something from chewing on antlers or digging up the skull.) Or use beetles inside a plastic tote to remove the flesh.  

Step 9: Whiten the Skull 

Some prefer the natural bone color. If not, once the skull is completely free of tissue, and it’s down to bare bone, it’s time to whiten the skull. To accomplish this, a large pot is needed again, along with a heat source. 

According to most taxidermy forum sources, the optimal solution is 3% hydrogen peroxide. Some opt for as much as 27%, but increasing the mixture strength to those levels increases the danger. Bring the pot to a low boil, and then place the skull in the boiling mixture. Allow it to sit for 6-8 minutes or slightly longer if needed. 

Those who don’t want to treat it this way might prefer to use a peroxide cream or paste (some are mixes), which is rinsed off after the appropriate duration. 

Step 10: Repair Broken Bones and Cartilage 

With the skull cleaned and whitened, make any necessary repairs. Use quality glue to re-attach any broken pieces. 

Pro Tip: Keep Skulls Out of Reach 

Throughout the process, keep skulls out of reach of animals. Critters will pack off a skull in a heartbeat. No one wants to lose their hard-earned deer. So, keep these somewhere they can’t be grabbed and packed off. Secure them so they can’t be stolen by dogs, coyotes, scavengers, etc. Lastly, enjoy your new European mount!

WHAT’S UP WITH THE EUROPEAN MOUNT TREND?

Editor’s Note: After poling a couple of taxidermists we know, we’ve come to the following conclusions. As inflation rages on, and prices of goods and services increase, so too are prices for taxidermy. As the cost of shoulder mounts continues to ramp up, more hunters are opting for more affordable alternatives. Currently, a lot of hunters are turning to European mounts, which are a quarter of the price (or less). If done DIY, it’s only the cost of needed materials. Plus, Euro mounts look cool, take up less space on the wall, and allow you to still “handle” the deer and look it over. Try that with a bulky shoulder mount.